Our process
Most of the cost of joint replacement is in the prep nobody sees. Here's every step we take — and the ones a lot of crews skip.
Inspection
We start by looking at where the water comes from and how the joints are actually failing — not just what's visible on top.
Remove old material
We take out the old rotted wood or failed caulk completely. Sealing over bad material is how joints fail again in a season.
Grind & clean the joint walls
We grind and clean the joint walls so the new sealant bonds to clean, sound concrete — not dust and debris.
Backer rod at the right depth
We install backer rod so the sealant bonds to only the two sides of the joint. That lets it stretch and compress as the concrete moves.
Polyether joint sealant
We fill with a polyether-based joint sealant, chosen for its flexibility and UV resistance in the Texas sun.
Optional sand-broadcast finish
Sand is broadcast into the wet sealant for a textured look that blends with the concrete and adds extra protection from the sun.
Clean up & walkthrough
We clean up the site and walk you through what we did, so you know exactly what to expect as it cures.
Two finish options
Both use the same sealed joint underneath. The finish is just about how it looks on top.
Standard Finish
A smooth, clean sealant line. The most common choice for driveways and sidewalks — simple and effective.
Sand-Broadcast Finish
Sand pressed into the wet sealant for a textured look that blends with the concrete and adds extra UV protection.
Why DIY joint caulking often fails
- • Joints that aren't clean and dry when sealed
- • No backer rod, so the sealant bonds to the bottom and can't stretch
- • Sealant too deep or too shallow for the joint width
- • Sealant bonding to the bottom of the joint instead of the two sides
It's not the caulk that fails — it's the prep. We do the prep right so the sealant lasts. (Thinking about doing it yourself? See our honest breakdown on the DIY vs. pro page.)
3 hours
Walkable after sealing
24 hours
Drivable after sealing