Serving Bell County and surrounding areas
DIY vs. hiring a pro
We're not going to talk you out of doing it yourself if you want to. Here's what it actually takes — and when it makes more sense to call us.
What you'd need to do it yourself
- A polyether or high-quality polyurethane joint sealant (not cheap hardware-store caulk)
- Backer rod sized to your joint width
- A grinder, router, or hand tools to remove old material
- A shop vac and brushes to clean the joint
- Caulk gun, and patience for a clean, even line
- A dry window — joints must be clean and dry to bond
Where DIY joints usually go wrong
- Sealing over dirt, dust, or damp concrete
- Skipping the backer rod so the sealant bonds to the bottom and can't flex
- Filling the joint solid instead of a hourglass shape
- Using a sealant that isn't rated for foot and UV exposure
- Doing it in the heat of the day when sealant skins over too fast
None of these are hard to understand. They're just easy to skip when you're doing it once. The sealant isn't the expensive part — the prep is, and that's what decides whether it lasts.
When it makes sense to call a pro
You have a lot of linear footage and it'll take you a full weekend
The joints are wide, deep, or already full of rotted wood
Slabs have sunk or tilted and you want the base stabilized
You'd rather it be done once and warrantied for a year
Either way, we're happy to take a look.
Send a couple of photos. If it's a quick DIY we'll say so — and if it's better handled by us, we'll give you a straight price.
Get a free quote